Construction process steps of mushroom stone

Construction process steps of mushroom stone

Construction preparation

Before construction, the stone lofting and arranging must be ordered and processed after the design and the owner's agreement. The incoming stones shall be numbered in sequence according to the number of arranging plates, and the inspection and acceptance shall reach the quality determined by the design and technical specifications. Before installing the stone panel on the wall, the method of tying copper wires in four or three grooves with high efficiency is adopted. Use the circular saw blade of an electric portable stone toothless cutting machine to make grooves on the parts where copper wires need to be bound.

The positions of the four grooves are: two vertical grooves are opened at the corners of the back of the plate, and the spacing is 30~40mm; A horizontal groove is opened at the lower part of the vertical groove, the depth of the horizontal and vertical grooves of the stone is 10~15mm, and the groove of the stone is located in the middle of the side of the stone. The three grooves are two horizontal grooves on the side and two vertical grooves on the back.

After the plate is slotted, cut the prepared 16~20 gauge copper wire or galvanized lead wire into a length of 30cm and bend it into a U shape. Put the U-shaped copper wire or galvanized lead wire into the horizontal groove on the back of the plate first, and then the two sides of the U-shaped pass through the two vertical grooves and cross at the horizontal groove on the side of the plate. Then, the copper wire is fastened on the back of the plate through the two vertical slots.

Reinforced mesh

According to the actual situation of the wall base structure, the steel mesh is fixed, which mainly includes the following situations:

In the first case, the pre-embedded steel bars can be pre-embedded on the wall, and the pre-embedded steel bars can be removed directly. First, a vertical φ6 steel bar is bound, and the tied vertical bars are pressed against the wall surface with the embedded bars. The horizontal and vertical steel bars are used to bind the stone, and can be bound according to the size of the stone.

The second case is when there is no pre-embedded steel bar on the wall: use φ8~10 expansion bolts to fix the expansion bolts according to the intersection of the stone slab and the steel mesh, and then weld the steel mesh to the expansion bolts. After welding, the welding slag will be removed. After knocking off, brush anti-rust paint, and finally hang stone.

The third case: when the wall is a lightweight wall such as ceramsite brick, the φ6 steel bar is used to penetrate the wall, and the other side of the wall is bent at a right angle (the length is about 30mm) and embedded in the wall plastering Floor.

But be careful not to over-tighten the copper wire to prevent breaking the copper wire or breaking the stone notch. After the above copper wire binding is completed, the groove should be filled with marble glue, which can ensure that the copper wire and the stone are firmly connected.

Reinforcement mesh binding sequence

First weld the vertical steel bars according to the size of the stone slabs, and then fix the first horizontal bar at +10cm on the ground to be welded firmly with the vertical bars, which are used to bind copper wires or galvanized lead wires to the lower opening of the first layer of plates.

The second horizontal rib binding is 2~3cm lower than the opening of the stone slab, and the horizontal ribs are bound upward in sequence according to the size of the stone blocks.

spring line

First, apply large wire pendants to the stone walls, cylinders and doors and windows to find the vertical from top to bottom (the theodolite should be used for high-rise buildings to find the vertical). Mainly consider the thickness of the stone, the space occupied by the mortar pouring and the size of the steel mesh, and the verticality of the original wall. When the deviation of the wall is large, local chiseling is required without damaging the structure to meet the decoration requirements.

Generally, the overall thickness of wet hanging stone should be 5~7mm. After finding out the vertical, pop out the outline dimension control line of the stone wall on the ground (equivalent to the cylinder surface and the door and window cover). This line is the installation reference line of the first layer of stone. The numbered stone slabs are marked in place on the elastic reference line, and each piece has a 1mm gap (if the design requires opening the seam, leave a gap according to the design regulations).

Install stone slabs

Unwind the numbered stone slabs according to the position and straighten the copper wire or galvanized lead wire, put the slab in place, tilt the slab outward, put the right hand into the back of the slab, tie the copper wire or galvanized lead wire at the bottom of the slab to the horizontal bar, tie Don't be too tight and leave a margin, just fasten the copper wire or galvanized lead wire and the horizontal rib firmly (it can be anchored after grouting). And use wooden wedges to stabilize and adjust the verticality and flatness of the stone. The gap between the block and the base layer (that is, the grouting thickness) is generally 30~50mm.

Check and adjust the wooden wedge with a ruler, then fasten the copper wire or galvanized lead wire, and proceed to the other side in turn. Cylinders can be installed in a clockwise direction, generally starting from the front. After the first layer is installed, use the ruler board to find the vertical, the level ruler to find the level, and the square ruler to find the yin and yang corners. The gaps between them are uniform and keep the opening of the first layer of slate straight.

After the adjustment of one layer is completed, use a bowl to prepare plaster of paris, and stick the porridge-like plaster between the joints of the stone slabs, so that the two layers of plaster are connected into a whole. Check the board for deformation and wait for the gypsum to harden before grouting (if a plastic hose with caulking is designed, it should be plugged before grouting).

Grout

Put the cement mortar with a mixing ratio of 1:2.5 into a half-sized bucket and add water to make a porridge (the consistency is generally 8~12cm), pour the mortar slowly with an iron dustpan, be careful not to touch the stone panel, and tap lightly with a rubber hammer while pouring Hit the slate surface to exhaust the poured mortar. The pouring height of the first layer is 15cm, which cannot exceed 1/3 of the height of the slate.

It is very important to pour the first layer of grout, because it is the copper wire at the bottom of the anchoring slate and it is necessary to fix the slate, so it should be operated gently to prevent collision and heavy pouring. If the slate moves out of place, it should be removed and re-installed immediately.